The Serbian Capital of Burek: How the People of Niš Enjoy This Bakery Specialty

Breakfast should not be skipped - it's a mantra that many adhere to without question, even people who watch their figure. The first meal of the day doesn't "stick" to the stomach and hips, as many claim, and in Niš, it is mostly reserved for burek.

This bakery specialty, for which the center of southern Serbia is widely known, can be found daily on the dining tables as well as work desks of many Nišlije (people from Niš) who have breakfast at work. There are many discussions about the best bakery meal, and one of the most common debates is whether the real burek is with meat or the one with cheese-filled layers. If we were to ask Sarajlije (people from Sarajevo), there would be no dilemma, but different rules apply in southern Serbia. A real burek in Niš is not just with meat. On the contrary, the one with cheese, and even spinach or pizza burek, is more often sold. In the following lines, we uncover how the people of Niš indulge in this bakery delight that, if made in this city, can confidently be spelled with a capital "B".

How Burek is Served in Niš

Hot or scalding, sticking to the paper and leaving greasy traces on the chin - that's how many people like it best. It is understood that it is eaten with hands, so almost no bakery in Niš provides eating utensils. However, there are also those who eat cold burek, and long-time consumers say that cold burek improves with age, like aspic. Burek is cut into eighths, mostly sold in quarters, while the biggest gourmands can devour even half a baking tray. If someone were to ask for burek by weight, it would be clear that they are not from Niš, or at least they have no experience buying burek in this city.

Of course, it is served with yogurt, which is the most common addition to this bakery specialty. It is eaten right in the bakery or taken home, to work, construction site, park bench, or wherever breakfast is planned. The bag is unfolded, the greasy paper is unwrapped, and the enjoyment can begin. After such a hearty breakfast, one should plan for a later lunch, as burek keeps you full for a long time and is very caloric.

Where to Find the Best Burek in Niš

At Rajko's, Mićko's, Anton's, Kalinka's, Trošarina, as well as in establishments like Kroasan, Grof, Esnaf... These are just some of the well-known Niš bakeries where people line up for burek in the morning. At some places, burek is even purchased late at night, after returning from a night out, or even during a tavern meal. It's well-known which place serves the best burek, but cheese is the winner for most people. Ham and sour cream melt best between the layers made at Grof, and this bakery has two locations - on Uroš Predića Street near Crveni Pevac and on Radoje Dakića Street in the Duvanište neighborhood. For pizza burek, filled with ingredients for the Italian specialty, the Trošarina bakery in the neighborhood of the same name is famous. The most popular bakery among tourists, Anton, is located at Crveni Pevac, while Anton's other location is in the city center on Obilićev Venac. The renowned Kalinka is situated on Kosta Stamenkovića Street, at the corner with Dušanova Street. It is one of the oldest bakeries in Niš and ranks high on the list of burek tastes preferred by Nišlije (people from Niš).

Burek for Different Tastes

Nišlije are flexible when it comes to burek fillings, so local bakeries often experiment with flavors. Chicken, kulen (a type of spicy sausage), and even sweet burek with cream or bananas have been sold as experimental options or can still be found in some places. However, despite giving it a chance, unconventional burek is often destined for failure or at least loses out to rivals with cheese, meat, spinach, and pizza fillings. Over 150 bakeries in Niš sell burek daily, and many of them have extended their "working hours" for selling this specialty, which used to be mainly served only until noon. Now, burek can be found in Niš at any time of day or night; it's just a matter of whether it will be fresh and hot at every moment. Of course, there are still bakeries that, like in the past, only operate in the morning and offer just one or two products alongside burek. One such bakery is Milena, near Park Svetog Save, which finishes selling its burek at 1 PM and is also famous for the taste of this specialty.

Burek Celebrated as a Festival in Niš

Days of Burek, the popular Buregdžijada, is a traditional event held in Niš at the end of summer. Many Niš bakeries sell this specialty under the open sky, and the tempting scent of burek fills the city. The burek festival lasts for several days and is mostly held in the city center on the Nišava river quay, with an alternative location at Park Svetog Save on Bulevar Nemanjića. During the Days of Burek, Niš burek masters usually compete with a few foreign producers, but the locals know where to buy the best. This is a great opportunity to try burek with various fillings such as cracklings, melted cheese, zucchini, potatoes, etc. Of course, it's advisable to attend this festival with a hearty appetite and share portions to try as many types of burek as possible, as it's a unique opportunity for some.

History of Burek in Niš

According to historical records, burek has been prepared in southern Serbia for centuries. The Tourist Organization of Niš states that burek arrived in this city in 1498 and took root thanks to Mehmed Oglu, a baker from Istanbul who first made round burek in a tray. From the late 15th century until today, burek has become a tradition of the southern region and one of the most common dishes on the table. Since the late 19th century, after the liberation of the city from the Ottomans, it has been made with pork fat, a practice that continues to this day. However, some bakers use vegetable oil for brushing the dough, making it suitable for fasting individuals and vegetarians when prepared with greens or vegetables. 

The local Union of Bakers estimates that around 20,000 people in Niš have burek on their table every day. This data confirms that the refined taste for burek developed by the people of Niš gives them an advantage in choosing where to buy this bakery delight. However, even those who stop at the first bakery they come across in Niš and buy burek there will not go wrong. In this city, there is no poorly made burek; it can only be better or worse depending on the bakery and the master who prepares it. Therefore, this specialty must be on the agenda of all visitors to the imperial city, who will cherish the taste of Niš burek in their memories for a long time.