Savamala Today or What is Left of the Former Center of the Serbian Capital?!

The most glamorous part of Belgrade and the center of most urban events at the beginning of the 20th century was unjustly neglected after World War II. Paradoxically, amidst the post-war expansion of the city in all directions, its former center was forgotten and neglected, while the new center moved away from the river.

The concept of Savamala regained active use only in the last decade when, in the place of abandoned houses, warehouses, and workshops in what was then a rather unattractive part of the city, the first cultural centers and clubs started to emerge, attracting Belgraders, primarily the youth, like a magnet. In addition to the nightlife and cultural scene, the ambitious project "Belgrade Waterfront" in the area of Bare Venecija and Savamala has further contributed to making Savamala known beyond the borders of Belgrade. Today, this part of the city once again represents the hub of many interesting social events, as it should be in the future.

Amidst the intense construction boom in this part of Belgrade, there are not many traces left of the pre-war Savamala. Therefore, let's take a walk through this neighborhood today and get to know some of its most valuable buildings, which have withstood the test of time and the mechanization that changes the face of this capital on a daily basis...

In one of the previous articles, it was explained how the first expansion of Serbian Belgrade beyond the rampart was initiated by Prince Miloš in 1836 when he traced two streets - Abadžijska (now Kraljice Natalije Street) and Savamalska (now Gavrila Principa Street). The new era brought new materials and technologies, so it was necessary to seek experts beyond the borders of Serbia. Slovakian engineer Franc Janke was one of the main engineers hired by Prince Miloš for the city's development. Franc Janke is primarily credited for introducing Western architectural concepts in Serbia and for creating Savamala as a whole.

The idea was to establish the center of the newly liberated city in that area, which would be populated by Serbian residents. To achieve such a vision, it was necessary to expand the narrow streets and demolish dilapidated houses where refugees from Hungary and Bulgaria were living. They were ordered to relocate to Palilula, obtain construction materials from state forests, and build new houses for themselves. As they resisted and didn't move even after a year, Miloš sent men who demolished over 150 houses in just a few hours. At the same time, Abadžijska Street was being created with the intention of relocating the abadžijas (tailors) from the old town and settling them in the new part of Savamala. However, eleven years after the construction of Abadžijska Street, it remained empty and neglected.

The second half of the 19th century brought trade development to Savamala. The proximity of the harbor, numerous warehouses, and cellars facilitated the arrival of wealthy merchants and the establishment of new trading companies. During this period, higher-quality houses and buildings were constructed, some of which still survive today as witnesses of the past.

The oldest preserved houses can be found in Gavrila Principa Street. This street was among the first to be urbanized in Savamala and set the initial foundations for the development of the city's architectural style.

Manak's House, built around 1830, represents a rare example of Eastern-Balkan residential architecture in Belgrade. The upper floor served as the residential area, while the ground floor was initially a tavern, then a bakery, and later a post office and craft shops. According to one legend, it was built for a Turkish aga and his harem. The name was given after Manak Mihailović, a merchant from Macedonia who was one of the house's owners.

In the same street, at number 8, there is the Antula family house built in the Romantic style in 1876. Behind the prefabricated buildings that now house a migrant center, at number 13, there is a typical house with a yard from the mid-19th century. At number 35, on the corner with Kamenička Street, there is the Najdanović family house, built before 1830. In the tavern located on the ground floor of this house, the renowned writer Petar Kočić created his most famous works.

The house at 42 Lomina Street was built in the 1880s by craftsmen from Srem. At the beginning of the 20th century, the renowned architect and academician Dragutin Đorđević lived there, and he was one of the architects who designed the building of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU).

In Crnogorska Street, at number 1, there is the building of the State Printing House. It was constructed in the 1870s in the spirit of Romanticism as a corner one-story building. Đura Jakšić worked as a proofreader at the State Printing House from 1872 to 1878. Today, at number 8, there is a pub called Ispod mosta, located in the house of Dimitrije Perović.

Hotel Bristol was built in 1912 on the site of Paranosov Han. It was constructed in the style of academism with elements of Secession. The hotel was equipped with the most modern Viennese furniture of that time and had 60 rooms. Many famous personalities stayed in its royal suite, once one of the most luxurious in Belgrade. In the 1920s, John Rockefeller was a guest at the hotel, and in the 1970s, his son David. According to urban legend, when David was supposed to attend an IMF meeting in Belgrade, he paid for the renovation of the then-abandoned hotel where his father had stayed and leased the entire top floor.

The streets Kraljevića Marka and Koče Popovića (formerly Zagrebačka) are silent witnesses that Savamala once represented the center of Belgrade. It is known that house numbers increase from the city center towards the city's periphery. In the case of these streets, the numbers increase in the opposite direction, from Karađorđeva Street towards Gavrila Principa Street, indicating the historical importance of Karađorđeva Street.

At Kraljevića Marka number 1, there is the house of Luka Ćelović - Trebinjac, a wealthy Belgrade merchant and philanthropist. He was one of the people who invested the most in the development of Savamala, so with his capital, the building of the Belgrade Stock Exchange, Hotel Bristol, the present-day Luka Ćelović Park, and the complex of buildings in Koče Popovića, Gavrila Principa, and Svetozar Radića Streets were constructed. His buildings are now recognizable by the inscriptions above the entrance doors that undoubtedly indicate their ownership. He left his estate and wealth to the University of Belgrade.

Beograd's Cooperative is one of the most beautiful palaces in Belgrade, which would be a source of pride even if it were located in any European city. It is situated on the former Mali Pijac Square, facing it directly. The building was constructed in 1907 as the headquarters of the first Serbian insurance society, established in 1882. It was the first building in Belgrade to use reinforced concrete, which would become more widely used after the First World War. Additionally, the façade was adorned with artificial stone, which was a novelty in architecture at that time. The building incorporates several architectural styles, including eclecticism, neo-baroque, and Secession.

The house of the Krsmanović brothers, Belgrade merchants, is located at Karađorđeva 59. This neorenaissance and neo-baroque beauty is the fourth palace surrounding Mali Pijac. One street in Savamala was named after the Krsmanović brothers.

Standing out as one of the largest and most beautiful buildings is the Railway Station, constructed in an academic style in 1885. The station was part of the first railway network connecting Belgrade and Niš.

The story of Savamala would not make sense without mentioning its bridges. The oldest bridge is the Old Railway Bridge, built in 1884 for the needs of the first railway network. Unfortunately, its fate was tied to the wars in this region as it was demolished twice – in 1914 and 1941. The current bridge was constructed as part of war reparations paid by Germany, and legend has it that the engineers did not account for the weight of the paint during the design, so it remains unpainted to this day. King Alexander Bridge was built in 1934, and today, Branko's Bridge stands on its foundations. Unfortunately, just seven years after its construction, the bridge was destroyed during the withdrawal of the Serbian army. Shortly after that, in order to cross the Sava River, the Germans relocated a bridge originally intended to cross the Tisa River to Belgrade. That is today's Sava Bridge.

The next time you pass through Savamala, take a moment to look at the facades of these beautiful buildings around you. You will see the skill and style embedded in them. Also, when you hear that "Belgrade Waterfront" will finally revitalize Savamala, remember that it was already revitalized long ago, but we neglected it. And when you order a drink at one of the popular clubs, raise your glass to those who, with enthusiasm and love, built Belgrade on the banks of the Sava River. And in the end, as true patriots, they donated it all to the state, the city, and the University.