Kavala - the Balcony of the Balkans

Miloš Ničić
6 min
20 July 2019.
Guide

Becoming a Greek state after centuries of Ottoman conquest and rule was not a unique process that would have united, under the blue and white flag with a cross, the entire territory that now constitutes the Republic of Greece. This process lasted even longer than in Serbia, so today's Greece is composed of parts of the territory that were liberated immediately after the War of Independence in 1821, then some islands that changed conquerors throughout history, enduring the shifts of Turkish and Venetian rulers, as well as the northern regions of Thrace, Macedonia, and Epirus, which found their place only after the liberation campaigns during the Balkan Wars.

For this reason, Greece entered the 20th century, and especially the interwar period, as a young country with parts of its territory that had been part of different states for almost the entire previous century. Such administrative complexity, combined with the Greek people's aspirations for the liberation of all territories, led to a complex population structure, especially in the northern parts of the country, where the demise of the Ottoman Empire dictated large migrations of various ethnic groups. Greeks, Jews, Albanians, Vlachs, Armenians, Turks (let's not forget that Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the father of modern Turkey, was born in Bitola and grew up in Thessaloniki), and many others called parts of northern Greece their home, creating a kaleidoscope of colors, flavors, scents, history, and culture in these areas. Nowhere is this more strongly expressed, yet cosmopolitanly integrated, than in the port city of Kavala.

Kavala, whose name origin linguists dispute but agree that it comes from the Byzantine Kabala, is located just 165 kilometers west of Thessaloniki, but that short distance did not prevent it from developing into a powerful maritime force since ancient times, as evidenced by the remains of the magnificent city of Philippi, founded by Philip II, the father of Alexander the Great. At this site, the remains of all the cultures that left their mark on this area are visible, from Hellenistic to Roman, Early Christian and Byzantine, to Ottoman-Islamic. Philippi holds a special significance for the Christian world because it was there that the Apostle Paul established the first Christian community in Europe, and it is believed that it was here that he performed the first recorded baptism - that of Lydia, a Macedonian woman from Philippi, who is now a Christian saint. A chapel now marks the place where the ceremony took place, and the entire site is a place of pilgrimage.

Kavala, like litmus paper, follows the changes on the historical stage of Europe, feeling them vividly in its urban fabric. It welcomed Ottoman conquerors at the end of the 14th century, when the Sanjak of Kavala was established, and grain production, silk production, and silver mining began in its surroundings. Such goods quickly attracted the attention of Ottoman traders, and the town grew. In the mid-16th century, Ibrahim Pasha, the Grand Vizier of Suleiman the Magnificent, built a surprisingly large aqueduct called Kamares (Arches) to supply the growing town with water from the nearby hills. By expanding the walls of the Byzantine castle towards Panagia Hill, the present-day appearance of Kavala was created, which is still dominated by these two structures and tourist attractions. The aqueduct is known as Kamares and is worth visiting during the day due to its strange but pleasant integration with the surrounding buildings, the traffic that passes through it, and also during the evening when it is beautifully illuminated, providing opportunities for excellent photographs.

Mehmet Ali Pasha, an Ottoman military commander and self-proclaimed governor of Egypt, was also born in Kavala. Many consider him to be the father of modern Egypt due to the strong reforms he implemented in the region. Out of gratitude to his birthplace, Ali Pasha gifted his homeland with an impressive building called Imaret (public kitchen with associated services). This magnificent structure has been standing on a hill in Kavala since its establishment in 1817, following the city's transformations throughout the years. Changing its purpose over time, the current edition of Imaret is a luxury hotel with rooms under domes and shaded winding archways, spectacular open terraces with views of the port and the old city. Even if you are not staying there, it is possible to visit the entire complex for a small fee, and such an opportunity should not be missed, despite the sarcastic comment of the famous Greek writer Alexandros Papadiamantis that Imaret is nothing more than a "tebelohanio" (han for lazy people). On the same occasion, also visit the house of Ali Pasha, which is located nearby, completing the picture of the Ottoman city with its narrow cobbled streets, traditional houses that may appear worn but have withstood the test of time for centuries, high walls facing the street, and shaded gardens of their owners.

Constantly gazing towards the sea, which frames Kavala in an amphitheatrical manner, and its port, which serves as the lifeblood of this city, visit the numerous reminders of the late 19th and early 20th centuries when tobacco cultivation, processing, and trading were the strongest industries in the city and a unique connection to the world. Tobacco was the foundation of some of the most substantial Greek family fortunes (the Onassis family, including Aristotle Onassis himself, were tobacco traders, first in Greek parts of Asia Minor and then in the motherland), embodying a sense of commercial acumen and pride. Nowhere is this more evident than in Kavala, which at times was almost entirely dedicated to the tobacco industry. The newfound wealth generated from tobacco exports dictated new trends of modernization for the city, enabling it to break free from the confines of the Ottoman era and fully embrace what Europe had to offer in those years. Some of the most beautiful buildings in Kavala were created as tobacco warehouses, primarily factories and drying houses, especially by the sea since drying the leaves in the maritime air gave tobacco a distinct aroma. Many of these buildings are now becoming creative hubs for young artists, who are attempting to revitalize this architectural heritage with new purposes. Simultaneously, wealthy merchants built villas that witnessed their success and remain the most significant structures in the city, such as the town hall.

Kavala is equally a seaside town, and it is worth getting lost in its port, listening to the shouts of sailors, visitors, traders, foreign tourists who dock their sailboats, and the city's colorful inhabitants who live by and off the sea. The meze meals are unavoidable, especially afternoons with a cold tsipouro or ouzo, which change color when touched by ice - from transparent to milky white (especially in the Nafpigion tavern). Afterward, the world retreats for a siesta, emerging in the afternoon for long cold coffees in cafes along the coast or in the old parts of the city on the cobblestones. Although the beaches around the city are beautiful, such as Ammolofoi, it is more challenging to board a ferry in the city itself and go for a swim on nearby Thassos, the greenest island in the Aegean and the home of honey production throughout the entire archipelago.

This distinctive Greek city should truly be seen as a genuine Balkan metropolis, a place that owes its brilliance, poverty, complexity, and diversity to a series of historical events that have had a strong influence on it, but above all, as a place that has been home to many nations and their customs throughout its history, from Spanish Jews to Greeks from Asia Minor. Such a diamond of taste, smell, history, and culture, nestled in the hinterland of the blue Aegean and the mighty Balkan nature, is a genuine recommendation for a destination that not only relaxes visitors but also enriches them.